Monday, November 9, 2015

Mayberry and Biltmore, North Carolina

November 2
Monday

Hard to believe this is the beginning of my sixth month of traveling on the road. My trip is almost half over and nothing bad has happened and I'm still loving everything new I'm seeing everyday. Am anxious to get home and see family and friends, tho, for Christmas.

On to North Carolina, headed toward Ashville, with a stop in Mount Airy.  But on the way I passed by Hickory, which is where our star pitcher for the SF Giants, Madison Bumgarner, hangs out in the off season.  The locals said he went to high school in a little town to the north called Hudson. Tempted as I was for a further detour I decided to keep going. Anyway, I hope to see him and the team in spring training in Phoenix.
.

 I found
 myself in Mayberry RFD, where I almost got arrested by deputy
Barny Fife.
Mount Airy, N.C. still has much of that 50s vibe that inspired native son Andy Griffith's fictional Mayberry.

Former chamber of commerce president Jim Grimes runs tours in a restored 1962 Ford Galaxie that passes for the sheriff's squad car.


Floyd's Barber Shop, Wally's Service Station and the Snappy Lunch is still there as well as Aunt Bee's Restaurant. Andy's parent's home sits there on the main street into town where they lived until the 1960s.

Andy used all these places where he grew up,
 not changing the names for his TV show which ran from 1960-1968. With no crimes to solve, Sheriff Andy spent most of his time philosophizing and trying to calm Barney down.
 I asked about crime today and was told the only crime was the taxes they are asked to pay.



If it wasn't already almost 5 pm and starting to get dark, I would have taken a tour. Instead had a chicken salad sandwich for dinner at Barney Fife's Cafe, drove around past the sights,
and headed to my RV park on the outside of town.

Feel like I've had a ride in the Way Back Machine.




From Mount Airy to Ashville to the country's largest home, the Vanderbilt's Biltmore estate.

Built by batchelor George Vanderbilt in the 1880s, it is a true castle, remeniscent of Versailles in France.
It was opened to the public in 1930,
 and today remains a family business with fourth and fifth generation Vanderbilts involved in day to day operations.


The 90 minute tour was $75, but (God help me), worth it.
It is full of art treasures of every kind, but somehow still has the feeling of an informal family home, unlike Versailles or Hearst Castle.  Maybe it's all the family portraits and photos around.
The tour guide had lots of personal stories of the family to share which added to the intimate feeling.

George was forward thinking, knowing he would marry some day and have a family so built the home with 250 rooms, including 35 guest and family rooms, 43 bathrooms,  3 kitchens, and 65 fireplaces all on over 4 acres of floorspace.

George was a grandson of Cornelius Vanderbilt whose early fortune was from railroads. The rags to riches story of Cornelius deserves a read.

No photos were allowed inside, so use your imagination.





The estate originally included 125,000 acres of Appalacian forestland much of which has been given over as state and local parks.

But there is still enough land, 8,000 acres, surrounding it for a 3 mile drive to the house thru beautiful grounds as well as a 6 mile drive to exit.
 The grounds were landscaped by Frederick Law Olmstead.




Another home in the region, if less imposing, has its own history. Thomas Wolfe's mother owned a boarding house on Spruce Street in downtown Ashville where the author grew up. It's now a state
historic site, so of course I had to see it. Especially since I am currently finishing the last chapter of You Can't Go Home Again.
It is authentically restored and  all the furnishings left just as they were when his mother actually lived there until 1945. When Thomas died of cerebral meningitis in 1938 he had become as famous as F.Scott Fitzgerald and Ernest Hemingway. His mother was still running the boarding house so people began coming and asking for tours, which she obliged. The woman was a consummate business person. When she died the family gave the home to the state for public tours.

The furniture looked too good for boarders, all being antiques. But that is what they had for furniture, those pieces weren't antiques then.

Thomas didn't have a room of his own and just slept in which ever room wasn't being rented. He left when he was 18 to go to college.






Took a drive thru this quirky section of Ashville in the hills that reminded me of Berkeley.









It's called Albermarle.
 This home just sold for $177K.

The only thing wrong with it is it's in North Carolina, not California.

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