Monday, April 25, 2016

San Francisco, the end of the road

April 5
Tuesday

San Francisco truly is an enchanted city and to be here with someone special is the best.
Florida friend Bob and I will have cousin Shari's 3rd floor walkup in Noe Valley for the next few weeks.  We'll explore, have great food, and do nothing to our heart's content.
A perfect way to end my year of wandering.


To wake up in a town that is not your own is one of the pleasantest sensations in the world. 
We are surrounded by adventure and have no idea what is in store for us
 but are willing to accept whatever comes our way.
 We begin by taking Muni into downtown near Union Square where we learn a ride on a cable car is now $7, probably due to the huge lawsuit years ago by the woman who claimed she had been turned into a nymphomaniac after a cable car accident.

library of the Marines Memorial
Lunch in the dining room of the Marines Memorial Club
where Bob has been a member for 44 years was a special treat
and a great view of SF from near Union Square.

Golden Gate Bridge over my shoulder


One of the best surprises in San Francisco, especially if you are a golfer,
is Lincoln Park Municipal Golf Course.  $34.50 weekdays.
Located in the heart of the city, it was hard to keep our concentration on golf when around every corner was an awesome view of Golden Gate Bridge. Someone back in 1917 had the foresight to create this 18 hole course at the end of the Lincoln Highway which began here in 1913 and was the first coast-to-coast road across America traversing 14 states.

view from our flat near Delores Park in Noe Valley area of SF
On an unusually warm 80 degree Sunday,  Delores Park on the street below our flat was filled with people enjoying the sun, walking dogs, working on their tans, hanging out.







No time spent in the City is complete until you have exhausted yourself on a day doing stairway walks.

Entire books have been written detailing walking tours of these knee and lung challenging hillside trails.

One of our favorites was the Moraga Steps between
15th and 16th Avenues in the Sunset district.
Beautiful mosaics run up the risers of 163 steps.
The project took one year beginning in 2003.

And no, we did not walk up or down, only parked at the bottom for a photo.









 But we did walk up and down many other stairways in our Noe neighborhood.

These stairs and hills are one of the reasons
 San Franciscans are in very good shape.
Forced daily exercise.










Better than stairs, rental bikes.

These in Chinatown where we went for lunch at The Hong Kong Clay Pot at 960 Grant, a place that seemed to have only locals for customers.
 The best places to find good cheap food.




A stroll around North Beach.

This flatiron building at Columbus and Kearny, the Sentinel Building,  was built in 1907 and bought by the Kingston Trio in 1959. They sold it to Francis Ford Coppola who has it as his offices today.

Its verdigris green color of  oxidized copper is
really a standout next to the ultra modern Transamerica Tower in the financial district.



North Beach nightlife looks seedy during the day. Carol Doda is long gone.
Rumor is she resides in a waterfront home on Sugar Loaf Key.





Very authentically unseedy are hip coffee shops
 like Cafe Trieste where beat generation icons
Jack Kerouac and Alan Ginsberg hung out in the 1950s.













There are plenty of left over hippies on the scene still.



Another landmark in North Beach is City Lights Bookstore,
 where since 1953 when poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti founded it,
booklovers can come to browse and soak up the ambiance of counterculture.






The latent hippie in me had a blast checking out the banned books and other hipster stuff in the Beat Museum on Broadway.
Remember Henry Miller's Tropic of Cancer?  Tame by today's standards. In high school I read it under the covers with a flashlight.

The car used in the film of Jack Kerouac's life, On the Road, is also at the museum along with all sorts of memorabilia
about that very liberating era about which I knew nothing
 because I was home raising kids.

If you come to the museum and you haven't met the Beatniks King,
then "you don't know JACK".






St. Peter and Paul's Church in
Washington Square Park near the end of Columbus is where Joe DiMaggio and Marilyn Monroe were married on the steps, so the story goes. They couldn't be married inside because Marilyn was divorced.
This couldn't be verified easily which is why I usually don't bother to verify. The stories are more  fun even if they aren't true.



Finished the day with Happy Hour at my fav restaurant, The Stinking Rose on Columbus.

If you aren't a fan of garlic you should not even walk by this place. Cross the street.

If your lover doesn't like garlic, you should find another lover.





Fisherman's Wharf  for a seafood lunch at Tarantino's, an Irish restaurant in the middle of all the Italianness of the wharf.

This giant lobster weighed 4 lbs and was estimated to be about 20 years old.  Figure 5 years for each pound.















The old street cars in the City are from all around the world.

This one was from Amsterdam.










Besides seeing the sights,we did a lot of this.


















  And this.

A flower shop on 24th St in Noe Valley.


Lisa and Michael came up for
Beach Blanket Babylon at Club Fugazi.

Uber is the only way to get around town.
Only $12 from Noe Valley to downtown and the drivers are always just minutes away roaming around waiting for a call.





My pirated photo of Beach Blanket Babylon.  I got hollered at by an usher but I got my no flash photo. The show was wacky wonderful as usual, spoofing the political candidates and other social issues.  We laughed at its witty cheesyness. It's all about the giant hats.

g

At the observation tower atop the DeYoung Museum in Golden Gate Park
 we found the best views of the City second only to the views from our flat.





Coming out of the DeYoung Museum,
Bob noticed I was wearing the Observation Tower as a
Beach Blanket Babylon hat.

Why hasn't it been in the show?!
An iconic SF scene.











   Shari and Philippe were due home from their trip so we packed up our stuff and moved down three flights of stairs to our car.  Crossed the Bay Bridge to Berkeley
for a visit with daughter Bobbie and Nacio.

      
A four mile walk on a fire trail in the Berkeley hills for a beautiful Bay view.




And lastly, a scene typical of Bezerkeley.
Bobbie's neighbor walking her pet pig, Truffles.

Bob just left on a plane for his home in the Florida Keys to return in the Fall.
 I will miss him but will keep busy between Lisa in Willow Glen and Bobbie in Berkeley until June 1 when my renter moves out and I can be back in my own condo at the Villages.

Time for some reflections on my journey around the US.

Things I've learned :

Travel really can change you if you let it.
The trip has been very therapeutic; driving, thinking, sorting out my life.

You don't need much to be happy, as long as you have a decent book,
 semi-adequate wine, and a destination.
And if you're paying attention, you will meet interesting people at least 10 times a day.
The roads we take alone offer up more secrets than those we take with others. Alone we're more likely to meet and talk to strangers along the way and we notice more.
Having my husband's ashes with me helped me not to feel alone.
He may not have been by my side, but he's very much in my heart.

But mostly I learned to face my fears. Not letting anyone talk me out of a journey I knew I had to take. Friends who were concerned about my safety seemed to be paralyzed by media hype from too many crime shows. In my 10 months on the road I had not one single incident of feeling threatened or unsafe from other people.
 99% of people are good and I'm not staying home because I may run into that 1%.
 If it happens I've lived a good long life and am ready to go. Attitude is everything.
With luck I have maybe 10 or 15 good years left
and don't intend to waste even one day of those years.
 Life has to be lived or it is no life at all.

Thanks for traveling with me in the virtual reality of cyberspace.
A big thank you to dtr Bobbie for being my tech support and dtr Lisa for being my admin handling mail, etc. Trip wouldn't have been possible without them.

 It's good to be home and I'm looking forward to catching up with all of you again.













Tuesday, April 5, 2016

Headed Home


Friday 
March 25, 2016

Driving up Hwy 1 on my way home I stop at Seal Beach near San Simeon Hearst Castle to see the Elephant Seal pups strewn on the beach.
 These are babies born this spring to parents who have moved on.



These beautiful scenes along the Big Sur area never cease to amaze me.

I  always knew I would know when my journey was over.
 For the last few weeks I've felt that to be true. 
 So am headed home with the excuse of getting my taxes done. 
But I really just want to be home again in my own house with my clothes hanging in the closet.

Bixby Bridge



I am wimping out on the last two months of my year long trip around the US, 
but having logged 27,068 miles in 35 states, I feel I've done it justice.


Am so anxious to be home that if Buckingham Palace was across the road
and the Queen was waiting to greet me I wouldn't bother.


It was lunch time so stopped at Nepenthe's to admire the patio view. 
This place began as a rest stop for Orson Wells and Rita Hayworth during WWII when they were driving down the coast back to LA. Enchanted with the view, they bought the hillside where they picnicked which included an old house. They never returned and never stayed in the house
 but later sold it to be developed into Nepenthe's restaurant.
 I like to think Orson and Rita would have liked the way it turned out. 
My memories of it in the 70s included young women with long skirts and flowers in their hair.
It was quite the hippie hangout back in the day.

Julia Pfeiffer State Park




Driving up Hwy 1 in Big Sur isn't exactly like Conky Tonkin'
down Hwy 1 in Florida to the Keys, but close.



I must be back in California.

Our unique boutique blend of
 environmentally friendly gasoline makes for
 high prices at the pump near Morrow Bay











Lovely day for a coffee visit with cousin Patricia and husband Carey in Carmel.





Wonderful to drive into Lisa's driveway in Willow Glen in San Jose.
My adventure isn't over until I move back into my condo June 1
 when my renter moves out.
Until then I'll be in San Francisco with Florida friend Bob for most of April. 
So stay tuned for the final blog.

After this long year of self-imposed exile, I've come out of the wandering,
looked around, and decided I've had enough of road trip as therapy.

It was a memorable time during which I learned a lot about myself and America, 
and am now ready to move on with what remains of my life.




10 months   35 states     27,068 miles








Thursday, March 24, 2016

Gambel House, San Ysidro Ranch, Hearst Castle

Tuesday
March 22


Those of you who know me well know that houses especially old ones,
have always held a special fascination for me.


The Gambel Hose in Pasadena is one of those.


Built in 1908 in just 8 months
 for one of the founders of Proctor and Gambel as a winter home.







No photos were allowed of the inside on the tour 
but you can find pictures online.



The wood is all teak. 
The incredible  Craftsman Arts and Crafts detail
shows you got a lot for your money in 1908.

The home was built for a cost of $50K, 
designed by architect brothers Greene and Greene.





A lovely Pasadena morning with weather clear enough to see the surrounding mountains.


That evening spent the night at the 
Dockweiler RV Park right at the water's edge 
in Playa del Rey



The next morning on the PCH  (Pacific Coast Highway) 
north toward Santa Barbara






San Ysidro Ranch is in the toney little village of Montecito 
in the hills above Santa Barbara





I have been wanting to see it since I learned years ago that
JFK and Jacqui honeymooned in a cottage here in 1953.


It was also a favorite hangout of Nancy Reagan.



So I made a reservation for lunch for a single.







I was seated in their outdoor patio area overlooking the mountains 
with the rest of the beautiful people.

Ordered their signature cocktail, a Blood Orange Margarita.
 Delicious. I've spent $17 in worse ways.

Sipping my drink I listen to the couple at the table to my left discussing a movie script.
The dating couple on my right order and their lunch appears while my order has yet to be taken.
It's been almost 20 minutes and I seem to be invisible. Is this a subtle message they don't welcome single diners?  For a change I am in a dress and sans baseball cap. I made an effort.
I could have called my waiter over,
 but decided to see just how far this would go. I would give them five more minutes. 



Just then my waiter stops by and asks if I would like to order even tho my guest hasn't appeared.
I said I was alone and he was appropriately apologetic saying the hostess said I was waiting for someone.  A miscommunication apparently. 
 I ordered a great seafood melt sandwich and salad $22,
and when the bill came they had comped me the $17 Margarita!  All is forgiven.






Driving up beautiful Highway 1
 another shock at the gas pumps
 near Morrow Bay.

It's our boutique blend of gasoline here in California
that has additives that make it safe for the environment.
We're told.






The beautiful California coastline near San Simeon rivals even that of Florida.
Sorry, Bob


Driving in the shuttle up to Hearst Castle I'm surprised at how green the hills are
thanks to recent rains. But the drought isn't over yet.


All of the pools and fountains at the Castle were dry because of the drought.

library



The last time I visited Hearst Castle 20 or so years ago, 
Hearst's upstairs private living quarters were not open to the public. Today they are .






His upstairs apartments have a dining room
for those intimate dinners
 but doesn't seat as many people as the main dining room downstairs.


Architect Julia Morgan's touches are everywhere particularly in the beautiful ceilings.

To see a miniature Hearst Castle visit 
the Berkeley City Club, designed by Morgan as a writer's retreat for women in the 1920s. 
It's open to the public and is a hotel on the
 Register of Historic Places




Hearst's bedroom had many family photos 
and was right next door to girlfriend
Marion Davies room.


Hearst and his wife were separated but never divorced as she would have been ostracized from polite 1920s society and the stigma might even have included his children whom he adored.

I asked if she ever visited Hearst Castle and was told yes, but she had to give several weeks notice for Hearst and Marion could clear out.

It was good to see again the fabulous European artifacts collected by this brilliant man.