Thursday, March 24, 2016

Gambel House, San Ysidro Ranch, Hearst Castle

Tuesday
March 22


Those of you who know me well know that houses especially old ones,
have always held a special fascination for me.


The Gambel Hose in Pasadena is one of those.


Built in 1908 in just 8 months
 for one of the founders of Proctor and Gambel as a winter home.







No photos were allowed of the inside on the tour 
but you can find pictures online.



The wood is all teak. 
The incredible  Craftsman Arts and Crafts detail
shows you got a lot for your money in 1908.

The home was built for a cost of $50K, 
designed by architect brothers Greene and Greene.





A lovely Pasadena morning with weather clear enough to see the surrounding mountains.


That evening spent the night at the 
Dockweiler RV Park right at the water's edge 
in Playa del Rey



The next morning on the PCH  (Pacific Coast Highway) 
north toward Santa Barbara






San Ysidro Ranch is in the toney little village of Montecito 
in the hills above Santa Barbara





I have been wanting to see it since I learned years ago that
JFK and Jacqui honeymooned in a cottage here in 1953.


It was also a favorite hangout of Nancy Reagan.



So I made a reservation for lunch for a single.







I was seated in their outdoor patio area overlooking the mountains 
with the rest of the beautiful people.

Ordered their signature cocktail, a Blood Orange Margarita.
 Delicious. I've spent $17 in worse ways.

Sipping my drink I listen to the couple at the table to my left discussing a movie script.
The dating couple on my right order and their lunch appears while my order has yet to be taken.
It's been almost 20 minutes and I seem to be invisible. Is this a subtle message they don't welcome single diners?  For a change I am in a dress and sans baseball cap. I made an effort.
I could have called my waiter over,
 but decided to see just how far this would go. I would give them five more minutes. 



Just then my waiter stops by and asks if I would like to order even tho my guest hasn't appeared.
I said I was alone and he was appropriately apologetic saying the hostess said I was waiting for someone.  A miscommunication apparently. 
 I ordered a great seafood melt sandwich and salad $22,
and when the bill came they had comped me the $17 Margarita!  All is forgiven.






Driving up beautiful Highway 1
 another shock at the gas pumps
 near Morrow Bay.

It's our boutique blend of gasoline here in California
that has additives that make it safe for the environment.
We're told.






The beautiful California coastline near San Simeon rivals even that of Florida.
Sorry, Bob


Driving in the shuttle up to Hearst Castle I'm surprised at how green the hills are
thanks to recent rains. But the drought isn't over yet.


All of the pools and fountains at the Castle were dry because of the drought.

library



The last time I visited Hearst Castle 20 or so years ago, 
Hearst's upstairs private living quarters were not open to the public. Today they are .






His upstairs apartments have a dining room
for those intimate dinners
 but doesn't seat as many people as the main dining room downstairs.


Architect Julia Morgan's touches are everywhere particularly in the beautiful ceilings.

To see a miniature Hearst Castle visit 
the Berkeley City Club, designed by Morgan as a writer's retreat for women in the 1920s. 
It's open to the public and is a hotel on the
 Register of Historic Places




Hearst's bedroom had many family photos 
and was right next door to girlfriend
Marion Davies room.


Hearst and his wife were separated but never divorced as she would have been ostracized from polite 1920s society and the stigma might even have included his children whom he adored.

I asked if she ever visited Hearst Castle and was told yes, but she had to give several weeks notice for Hearst and Marion could clear out.

It was good to see again the fabulous European artifacts collected by this brilliant man.








I LOVE LA !!!!

Friday
March18
 Can't believe my trip is only a few days from being over.
But OVER it is and I'm ready for it to be OVER.
Want to be back in my own place with my clothes hanging in the closet.

My first day back in California since Christmas.
 Entered thru the desert so don't know if that actually counts as being in California.
Not my fav part of my home state.


But the desert does have beautiful sunsets, like this one at the Needles KOA.


I must be back in California from the looks of prices at the pump

The Wig Wam Motel on Route 66 in San Bernardino.
The only thing worth seeing in SB and I wish it was time for bed so I could stay here.


Since these are my last few days on the road I treat myself to the ultra smancy 
Newport Dunes RV Resort in Newport Beach... $114/night 


I have Happy Hour at their Bistro and people listen to the couple at the bar discuss the relative pros and cons of Donald Trump.  It's like people watching, but listening instead.  Some of the most interesting conversations I've had are ones I haven't actually taken part in.




DDD, Guy Fieri's Diners, Dives and Drive Ins
TV show on the Food Channel has been my source
for some great places to eat on the road.  

That's where I found the Semper Fi Cafe in Fountain City which is loaded with Marine memorabilia for a special kind of ambiance. And since I know a Marine, I had to check it out.


Chatted with Bob, the owner's father, who was there early like me.


Had the glorified version of SOS on a military tray. Scrambled eggs under the gravy.
 YUM!  It really was.

By the time I left it was full of people. 
 Now called Paul's Cafe since they added different branches of service.
 










Visited the Getty Villa
in Pacific Palisades









J.Paul Getty bought 64 acres in Malibu in 1945
 and housed  his collection of ancient Greek and Roman artifacts in an existing home on the property.

In 1968 he re-created a first century Roman country house on the property
to display his growing collection of art.


Yes, I'm in LA


First century Roman fountain of mosaic tiles and shells




Venus Goddess of Love













Getty Villa definitely worth a visit.
 So much more character than the new Getty museum up on the hill.




Santa Monica Pier


Wacky fun place that also happens to be the official end of
Route 66













with a sign to mark the spot


















Love the energy of the Los Angelenos.
Always moving, fun city with that special young vibe.

Probably best in small doses. If I lived here I might not feel the same.












Wednesday, March 23, 2016

Oatman AZ

Friday
March 18

Almost forgot the old mining town of Oatman AZ.


Glad I didn't miss the spectacular stretch of old Route 66 thru the mountains.
The two lane road was fortunately paved and the twists and turns were like a roller coaster ride,
 almost as bad as Mt. Mansfield in Vermont.


On the way to Oatman is a spot in the road called Cool Springs,
 the site of this restored 1926 Mobil station.
 Inside, Craig the manager will be happy to sell you a soda pop and show you around the museum.


Arriving in Oatman we find the main street full of friendly wild burros.


Oatman was a gold mining town 100 years ago. Burros were used in the mines and when the mines closed the burros were released into the hills where they live today.

   
They come into town to wander among the tourists, Snowbirds and motorcyclists.




These two cowpokes



got into a gunfight at high noon on Main Street


Dusty, a Sam Waterston look alike,
was the cuter of the two.

Too bad he lost the fight.
This group of Brazilians had rented all black motorcycles in LA
 and were touring around the West


Another group had come into town in vintage cars
that were getting dusty in the parking lot.







That night, my last in Arizona before heading to California,
I'm treated to a great sunset at Needles.